Will the Saga Continue for Diddy and Sean John?

Memo
December 14, 2021
Will the Saga Continue for Diddy and Sean John?
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Last week, Diddy made a $3.3 million bid to buy back Sean John since the parent company, GBG has filed for bankruptcy and is selling its assets.

The timeline. If Diddy pulls this off, props to him because the timeline is impeccable.

1998: starts Sean John

2003: Billionaire Ron Burkle invests $100M into Sean John

2016: GBG buys majority stake in Sean John. $450M annual sales

2021: bids on Sean John for $3.3M

The late 90s and early 2000s had a slew of fashion brands launched by hip-hop figures. Most of them faded away as the culture moved past the baggy jeans and oversized tees. Others lasted longer, but ran into distribution challenges and oversaturated the market. Some upper-scale brands got lost in the K&G Superstore clearance racks with the Steve Harvey Collection-sized suits. But Sean John prevailed.

When we talk about hip-hop's relationship with high fashion, I often forget to mention Sean John, and that's on me. I don't consider department stores products to be luxury fashion. But Sean John's placement at Macy's helped pave the way for the Virgil Abloh's at Louis Vuitton, Gucci Mane and Gucci, and other collabs.

Leveling up at each step. Each step in Sean John's journey was an attempt to level up. Its 2003 investment was a cash infusion to scale the brand more quickly. Its 2016 sale to GBG was a desire to better compete with the department store heavyweights like PVH's Calvin Klein or Polo and Denim & Supply Co's Ralph Lauren.

But the COVID-19 pandemic hit GBG hard. Its USA sales dropped 44% in the fiscal year ending March 2021. As Retail Dive reported, the pandemic hurt the supply chain, which hurt GBG's liquidity and led many suppliers to demand cash on delivery that GBG didn't have. That sparked the bankruptcy and the selloff that Puff wants in on.

Diddy's endgame. I'm no bankruptcy expert, but I won't be surprised if Diddy's $3.3 million gets outbid. But I also expect that Diddy is willing to pay more given his previous lawsuits against GBG for leveraging his image. Diddy owns his likeness, which is an advantage he has over other buyers should he require the company.

It also aligns with Diddy's strengths. He's made a lot of business moves, but his two biggest successes outside of music are Ciroc and Sean John. In both settings, he found a sector that didn't identify as much with hip-hop—vodka and affordable luxury fashion— and added his own touch.

He's been elevating that lifestyle since he dressed Jodeci for music videos when he interned at Uptown Records. This has always been his strength. Puff should continue to lean into that.

Read more about Diddy's Sean John pursuits in GQ.

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